The Life and Times of Building a Harbor Freight Folding Trailer….
Wednesday, April 5th, 2006 at 10:22 pm by gothicbeaST
Hi kids, another great installment of the “Gothic Beast” goes racing story. This week we get to learn about the two month Trailer project.
See back in the beginning the goal was a cheep trailer that folds up nice against the wall. What we got was a nice trailer that folds up against the wall, but the fact was the project while not expensive had its ups and downs.
I bought the 1440lb 8′ Folding trailer kit from Harbor Freight with the 12” wheels for the extra weight holding capacity. What I got was two heavy boxes of parts from Harbor Freight, a MCO (Manufacture Certificate of Origin) and a whole mess of a project to work on.
Opening up the box and sorting though all the pieces was a real joy. Our Friends in China like to shake things up a bit and changed some of the bolts and pieces in the kit. It was nice because THE FORGOT TO CHANGE THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!! That was a nice extra bonus of fun and excitement while I am trying to match up the number of parts on the parts lists.
But the changes were for the better, I got nice self locking nuts, a bunch of extra bolts, pre-lubed wheel bearings already assembled, tires that were inflated, and the whole hitch assembly pre-bolted together. This made the rest of the hell to put the trailer together, seem just oh so much better. Since the trailer is RED, I have decided that SATAN himself designed this torture device. Most every piece was not marked, or if it was, it was marked with a nice sticker that comes off quickly and sticks to other parts. This guessing game added to the fun of assembling a trailer out of a box. But at $230, why should I complain.
After a wonderful 5 hours on a Sunday, I had the basic trailer together. I have an engineering degree and I was guessing at how this thing goes together. I was lucky and did not mess up to many times and I got the whole thing together and it folds flat like the instructions claimed. Now mind you that it was completely worthless for hauling a bike, as it had no place to hold the bike down with. That was my job, to attach two 4×4 foot sheets of plywood as a decking.
Now I took a few minutes and measured the thickness of decking that would fit, and I had just 1 1/4” of space between the rails of the folding trailer. The instructions recommended 3/4” plywood sheet, which I would have loved to use, but then again, I would have not been able to close the trailer. Now maybe if the trailer was put together in METRIC, it would all be good. But at my local Home Depot, 3/4” plywood sheets were actually 3/4” of an inch thick, so I had to go with the 5/8′ thick plywood and continue on.
So after I got my lovely 5/8” thick plywood, I bought some outdoor paint with some added silica (Sand) for texture and grip. No one likes a slippery deck to load a motorcycle on, so I figured the added sand in the paint would help. Since I had to buy a gallon of the stuff, if anyone needs 3/4” of a gallon of gray paint with sand in it, let me know. I bought the hardware to attach the decking to the trailer, which was conveniently absent from my kit. With this I added another $85 to my project of $230, brining this up to $315 for my discount trailer.
The wife lovingly applied the paint with 3 coats just to be extra thick. This was good as we had so much paint it really did not matter. But the paint dried quickly and we did not have any troubles with the paint, but the fun part came to attaching the deck to the trailer. See the holes are all on the bottom, and while that is good and fun, the best part is you can’t actually get to those holes with a normal drill. I considered buying a right angle drill, but I decided the mark and drill method to be the best. It was a fun job of marking and drilling and marking and pushing bolts though and hoping everything lined up correctly. It would have been even easier if I had not had to make 45degree cutouts for everything to fit up. But we got it cut out and again the trailer folded up, but not as much as before. Seems our friends in China don’t fold their prototypes with the wood deck installed. If they did, the would have noticed that the bolt heads would interfere and prevent the whole contraption from folding flat. The difference is just two inches at the top of the open end, but it just seems like a silly over site on their part.
Once I got the deck installed, I had to hook up the lights. This looked like an easy project, till I noticed the wire harness was to SHORT, so I had to do some extra splicing and routing to get everything to work. Then when I plugged the unit in, the lights did not work and I could not figure out why. I check for a break in the wires, bad connections and everything. I was very frustrated and then folded up the trailer to put it away for the night. I did not remove it from the vehicle, but when I folded it, it worked fine. I opened it up and the lights stopped working again. I check around and the lovely powered coated parts did not have a ground path to the front where the ground screw was. After some fun drilling and adding some ground wire, I was able to get the lights to work. Add $20 in extra wires and tape to hold everything together and we are up to $335 for my trailer.
I went back to harbor freight and bought a nice trailer stand with a wheel. At $40 it seemed overkill, but later on I found it nice to be able to move the whole trailer around without the vehicle. I was up to $375 for my discount trailer.
Next I added 4 tie downs at $20 for the tie downs and hardware. I added a pop chock for $45 to hold the front wheel so I could put the bike on it. I ponyed up for some ratching straps from CostCo at $15, and now I was up to $455 for the whole package.
I had a nice ramp that I had bout earlier from Harbor Freight for $40 and about $10 for hardware. I really like my ramp and I can push the bike on the trailer without using the motor. So set me up for $505 for the trailer.
Now comes the fun part, which is hooking it up to my new towing vehicle. When I got my latest towing vehicle, I added the “Towing Package”. But when I received the vehicle, I found I had the “Towing PREP Package”. No big deal, just add it to my tab for the hitch and some wire, how much could it be. Well the OEM Receiver unit, weiring and payment to a friend to help install it set me back a bit over $600. Yeah $600 mistake is my fault, and not the trailer, but it was a nice extra bonus.
Now to hook my trailer to my towing vehicle, I need a 4” rise (yes kids, rise not drop) to get the hitch and trailer to line up. Wallyworld set me up with a Ball Mount with 4” rise, 1-7/8” ball, Master lock Hitch and Receiver locks, Wench to connect the Ball unit to my Ball Mount, an extended wire harness (Since my Harbor Freight wire harness was to short), 2 D-ring safety chain attachments for $80 out the door. What a deal, I was in for $535.
I hooked everything up and found my SAFTEY chains were to short. So a quick run over to Home Depot for 6foot of #50 chain, and I was up to $545 for my trailer. What a deal, when I started with an idea that it would be all done for $300 or so. Was I off the mark.
Then I got to go to the MVD and get the whole thing registered. I spent a lovely 2 hours at the MVD waiting my turn for an inspection, title paperwork and a license The lady at the counter offered me to pay $130 for a “Permanent” plate that I would never need to pay registration fees again. When I asked how much it would be for one year, she told me ABOUT $70. I asked her to calculate it, and she got a closer number to $35. Of that $35, only $10 was taxes that I would pay every year. Since I don’t see myself owning the trailer for 9.5years, I decided to go with the annual registration.
That brings my total to $585, which was about TWICE what I was thinking this little project was going to cost. Now don’t get me wrong, I paid everything with a smile. Not going to get my race bike to the track any other way.
So how does the thing work?
When it’s empty it jumps around like a Mexican jumping bean. The darn trailer weighs at best 325 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 1450 pounds, the springs are very stiff. The trailer does a nice job with the bike on it, but lets be honest, this is not QUALITY construction. The trailer twists and the bike shakes a bit, but it gets down the road. I am happy because the bearings did not get hot, and they have a Zerk fitting for some grease every time I use the darn thing.
What is next?
I am thinking of about learning to weld and welding all the joints together. Who cares about the powered coat finish anyway. I think welding it together would help out a bunch. Just add another $300 for a welder to my tab…. Maybe I should have just gone and bought a good trailer from day one.
Wait till next time, when I start talking about my “Toy Hauler RV” that I plan to buy.
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Thanks for the “reality” check! I’ve made this same compromise on numerous occasions. What is interesting is that while not rocket science, putting stuff like this together takes real brain power (multi-discipline engineering prowess and common sense). So how the hell does your average Joe get stuff like this to work??? Not to mention the time involved.
However, it does prove the old adage that “you get what you pay for”.
Rhino