The Life and Times of Building a Harbor Freight Folding Trailer….

Hi kids, another great installment of the “Gothic Beast” goes racing story. This week we get to learn about the two month Trailer project.

See back in the beginning the goal was a cheep trailer that folds up nice against the wall. What we got was a nice trailer that folds up against the wall, but the fact was the project while not expensive had its ups and downs.Completed Trailer

I bought the 1440lb 8′ Folding trailer kit from Harbor Freight with the 12” wheels for the extra weight holding capacity. What I got was two heavy boxes of parts from Harbor Freight, a MCO (Manufacture Certificate of Origin) and a whole mess of a project to work on.

Opening up the box and sorting though all the pieces was a real joy. Our Friends in China like to shake things up a bit and changed some of the bolts and pieces in the kit. It was nice because THE FORGOT TO CHANGE THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!! That was a nice extra bonus of fun and excitement while I am trying to match up the number of parts on the parts lists.

But the changes were for the better, I got nice self locking nuts, a bunch of extra bolts, pre-lubed wheel bearings already assembled, tires that were inflated, and the whole hitch assembly pre-bolted together. This made the rest of the hell to put the trailer together, seem just oh so much better. Since the trailer is RED, I have decided that SATAN himself designed this torture device. Most every piece was not marked, or if it was, it was marked with a nice sticker that comes off quickly and sticks to other parts. This guessing game added to the fun of assembling a trailer out of a box. But at $230, why should I complain.

After a wonderful 5 hours on a Sunday, I had the basic trailer together. I have an engineering degree and I was guessing at how this thing goes together. I was lucky and did not mess up to many times and I got the whole thing together and it folds flat like the instructions claimed. Now mind you that it was completely worthless for hauling a bike, as it had no place to hold the bike down with. That was my job, to attach two 4×4 foot sheets of plywood as a decking.

Now I took a few minutes and measured the thickness of decking that would fit, and I had just 1 1/4” of space between the rails of the folding trailer. The instructions recommended 3/4” plywood sheet, which I would have loved to use, but then again, I would have not been able to close the trailer. Now maybe if the trailer was put together in METRIC, it would all be good. But at my local Home Depot, 3/4” plywood sheets were actually 3/4” of an inch thick, so I had to go with the 5/8′ thick plywood and continue on.

So after I got my lovely 5/8” thick plywood, I bought some outdoor paint with some added silica (Sand) for texture and grip. No one likes a slippery deck to load a motorcycle on, so I figured the added sand in the paint would help. Since I had to buy a gallon of the stuff, if anyone needs 3/4” of a gallon of gray paint with sand in it, let me know. I bought the hardware to attach the decking to the trailer, which was conveniently absent from my kit. With this I added another $85 to my project of $230, brining this up to $315 for my discount trailer.

The wife lovingly applied the paint with 3 coats just to be extra thick. This was good as we had so much paint it really did not matter. But the paint dried quickly and we did not have any troubles with the paint, but the fun part came to attaching the deck to the trailer. See the holes are all on the bottom, and while that is good and fun, the best part is you can’t actually get to those holes with a normal drill. I considered buying a right angle drill, but I decided the mark and drill method to be the best. It was a fun job of marking and drilling and marking and pushing bolts though and hoping everything lined up correctly. It would have been even easier if I had not had to make 45degree cutouts for everything to fit up. But we got it cut out and again the trailer folded up, but not as much as before. Seems our friends in China don’t fold their prototypes with the wood deck installed. If they did, the would have noticed that the bolt heads would interfere and prevent the whole contraption from folding flat. The difference is just two inches at the top of the open end, but it just seems like a silly over site on their part.Wheel Stand

 

Once I got the deck installed, I had to hook up the lights. This looked like an easy project, till I noticed the wire harness was to SHORT, so I had to do some extra splicing and routing to get everything to work. Then when I plugged the unit in, the lights did not work and I could not figure out why. I check for a break in the wires, bad connections and everything. I was very frustrated and then folded up the trailer to put it away for the night. I did not remove it from the vehicle, but when I folded it, it worked fine. I opened it up and the lights stopped working again. I check around and the lovely powered coated parts did not have a ground path to the front where the ground screw was. After some fun drilling and adding some ground wire, I was able to get the lights to work. Add $20 in extra wires and tape to hold everything together and we are up to $335 for my trailer.Tie Down

I went back to harbor freight and bought a nice trailer stand with a wheel. At $40 it seemed overkill, but later on I found it nice to be able to move the whole trailer around without the vehicle. I was up to $375 for my discount trailer.

Next I added 4 tie downs at $20 for the tie downs and hardware. I added a pop chock for $45 to hold the front wheel so I could put the bike on it. I ponyed up for some ratching straps from CostCo at $15, and now I was up to $455 for the whole package.

I had a nice ramp that I had bout earlier from Harbor Freight for $40 and about $10 for hardware. I really like my ramp and I can push the bike on the trailer without using the motor. So set me up for $505 for the trailer.

Now comes the fun part, which is hooking it up to my new towing vehicle. When I got my latest towing vehicle, I added the “Towing Package”. But when I received the vehicle, I found I had the “Towing PREP Package”. No big deal, just add it to my tab for the hitch and some wire, how much could it be. Well the OEM Receiver unit, weiring and payment to a friend to help install it set me back a bit over $600. Yeah $600 mistake is my fault, and not the trailer, but it was a nice extra bonus.Pop Chock

Now to hook my trailer to my towing vehicle, I need a 4” rise (yes kids, rise not drop) to get the hitch and trailer to line up. Wallyworld set me up with a Ball Mount with 4” rise, 1-7/8” ball, Master lock Hitch and Receiver locks, Wench to connect the Ball unit to my Ball Mount, an extended wire harness (Since my Harbor Freight wire harness was to short), 2 D-ring safety chain attachments for $80 out the door. What a deal, I was in for $535.

I hooked everything up and found my SAFTEY chains were to short. So a quick run over to Home Depot for 6foot of #50 chain, and I was up to $545 for my trailer. What a deal, when I started with an idea that it would be all done for $300 or so. Was I off the mark.

Then I got to go to the MVD and get the whole thing registered. I spent a lovely 2 hours at the MVD waiting my turn for an inspection, title paperwork and a license The lady at the counter offered me to pay $130 for a “Permanent” plate that I would never need to pay registration fees again. When I asked how much it would be for one year, she told me ABOUT $70. I asked her to calculate it, and she got a closer number to $35. Of that $35, only $10 was taxes that I would pay every year. Since I don’t see myself owning the trailer for 9.5years, I decided to go with the annual registration.

That brings my total to $585, which was about TWICE what I was thinking this little project was going to cost. Now don’t get me wrong, I paid everything with a smile. Not going to get my race bike to the track any other way.

So how does the thing work?

When it’s empty it jumps around like a Mexican jumping bean. The darn trailer weighs at best 325 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 1450 pounds, the springs are very stiff. The trailer does a nice job with the bike on it, but lets be honest, this is not QUALITY construction. The trailer twists and the bike shakes a bit, but it gets down the road. I am happy because the bearings did not get hot, and they have a Zerk fitting for some grease every time I use the darn thing.

What is next?

I am thinking of about learning to weld and welding all the joints together. Who cares about the powered coat finish anyway. I think welding it together would help out a bunch. Just add another $300 for a welder to my tab…. Maybe I should have just gone and bought a good trailer from day one.

Wait till next time, when I start talking about my “Toy Hauler RV” that I plan to buy.

 

21 Comments

Thanks for the “reality” check! I’ve made this same compromise on numerous occasions. What is interesting is that while not rocket science, putting stuff like this together takes real brain power (multi-discipline engineering prowess and common sense). So how the hell does your average Joe get stuff like this to work??? Not to mention the time involved.

However, it does prove the old adage that “you get what you pay for”.

Rhino

Comment by Anonymous | April 6th, 2006 11:22 am | Permalink

I’ll give you $400 for it.

Comment by angrybob | April 6th, 2006 12:46 pm | Permalink

Well $585 isnt that bad for what you got. I’ll give you $401 for it! LOL

Comment by Kennard | April 6th, 2006 12:57 pm | Permalink

Wow a bidding war for my Harbor Freight trailer. I think I will keep it, because I do like that it folds up neatly against the wall of my garage. I figure it will be used about 10 times a year and that is it. I don’t think I will take it on long trips to Las Vegas or California. But it should do me fine for trips of 30miles inside the phoenix area….

Just plan on 12+hours to build it, and 2+hrs to get it registered.

Comment by gothicbeaST | April 6th, 2006 4:33 pm | Permalink

I’m about to build something similar. Curious where you got the wheel chock and tie-down hooks?

Comment by Jim | May 15th, 2006 1:30 pm | Permalink

I got the wheel chock from Kneedraggers.com. You can buy them at a bunch of locations. The chock is the “Lockhart” version of the “Pingle” chock. They are available everywhere for about $50 with mounting hardware
I got the tie down parts at a “Trailer” shop in Texas. They are know as a “Rope Ring” and you can buy them from most places on line Though the “Trailer” shop cut me a deal for $8 for 4 of them.

Comment by gothicbeaST | May 15th, 2006 6:58 pm | Permalink

Thanks for the info - just the type of review I was looking for as I consider the same trailer. I knew there would be hidden costs but hadn’t worked them all out yet. Thanks!

Comment by queasyfish | June 28th, 2006 8:04 am | Permalink

Nice work!

I just bought the same trailer. Can you describe more how you ran the extended ground wire?

Mine came with an 18″ white wire that extended back from the harness and then was screwed tightly to the self tapping screw on the right side near the hitch. I scraped off the paint around the screw, thinking this might help

I only get the hazards to flash. I can’t get the tail lights to go on,yet. Is that what happened for you?

Hope you can help.

Thanks

Rod Wylie

Comment by teachndad | July 3rd, 2006 10:44 pm | Permalink

Do you load your bike with the trailer in the tilt position?

Thanks

Comment by Jeff | August 10th, 2006 7:48 pm | Permalink

I just put together this trailer today. Took about 5 hours without wiring. Paid $229.00. Seens that much of the “extra” money you spent was to make it motorcycle specific. $85 for hardware to secure the plywood? You got taken advantage of. I expect to finish out at about $300 and have it set up to haul my XR650. Tie-downs, DMV fees, and hitch for your vehicle, and lock? You are obviously just trying to inflate the total and blame it on the trailer. Are you a politcian?

Comment by Mike | September 23rd, 2006 6:26 pm | Permalink

In follow up, I have added a “rail” around the outside of the trailer. The rail did not cost more than $25 to make and paint, and has helped make the trailer more useful for something other than a motorcycle.

If we take the tie-downs and hitch out you save about $75 on the trailer price I posted.

Comment by gothicbeaST | December 20th, 2006 4:29 pm | Permalink

Wow. I was actually considering getting one of those trailers. But after all the hassle, I’m thinking a real motorcycle trailer (used) couldn’t be too much more.

Comment by Anonymous | February 14th, 2007 1:59 pm | Permalink

Was this trailer registered in Phoenix? When I contact MVD, they inform me that the only option is a permanent registration ($125). I called MVD and the second representative confirmed the above is correct. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance.

Comment by Question | May 16th, 2007 3:38 pm | Permalink

would you recomend this for a motorcycle or by 1 completely uilt?

Comment by jiggie | July 3rd, 2007 11:53 am | Permalink

would you recomend this for a motorcycle or by 1 completely built?

Comment by jiggie | July 3rd, 2007 11:53 am | Permalink

Registration in Arizona.

FYI, the MVD does not want you to register the trailer as a “Commercial” unit. The MVD’s goal is to have you pay for a permanent tag. The downside is after 24months there is no “Redemption” fee for the tag if you sell the trailer.

I just got a Kendon trailer and spent 45minutes going over this with the MVD. After a supervisor came over to talk to me, they said my old trailer was registered as a “Commercial” vehicle. You can do that with any trailer. My Kendon registration cost $45 total, including new plates.

Comment by gothicbeaST | July 8th, 2007 5:10 pm | Permalink

I purchased the same trailer for $200. Repainted it black ($15) (red fades) and used a metal grate floor $45. Total cost $260 for the trailer.

Hitch and wiring installed myself on Altima $150

Budgeted $450. $40 left for a Wheel chock and tie down points. The tie down points may be overkill, but I would feel better with them installed. Also considering a MC rail since the metal grating seems a little too flexible for my taste.

Comment by Anonymous | August 3rd, 2007 1:09 pm | Permalink

[…] to do three things - tranfer the title to my SV650, tranfer the title + plates for my new trailer (GothicbeaST’s old trailer), and get new tabs for my Futura which included an emissions test.  The original plan was to go on […]

I just built one of these and I didn’t have wiring problems, bought a quart of paint ($3.48)a handfull nuts and bolts in bulk and plywood for far less than the money spent above. And so I have to think that maybe he could shopped a little smarter.

j.

Comment by medinajay | October 6th, 2007 7:01 pm | Permalink

It took me about 12 hours total to build mine. I used a cheap chock from Cycle Gear that works fine. For tie-downs I installed eye-bolts near the four corners where regular hex bolts would have gone. I liked having my bike anchored to the frame. Just hauled my bike 500 miles on the interstate on 8 in. wheels with no trouble whatsoever.

Comment by j601wh | December 17th, 2007 10:01 am | Permalink

I have a similar trailer…the only other “option” that I purchased was to have the two wheels high speed balanced at a local tire store…remember that a
12 inch wheel is spinning a lot faster than the wheel on your tow vehicle. My trailer tracks and tows very smooth.

Comment by Mark I | April 16th, 2008 10:20 pm | Permalink

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