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Once you step outside at any temperature below your skin temperature (around 86 degree F), you start losing the battle with the elements. The greater the temperature difference, the faster you go into debt. Add windchill on top of that and you start getting your thermodynamic ass kicked rather quickly. My first line of defense against the hypothermic effects of temperature and windchill is an Aerostitch one-piece riding suit. A one-piece suit has the advantage of allowing the air around the warmer parts of your body to move to areas that might not be so toasty. With nothing but street cloths on underneath, it’s good down to about 60 degrees. Adding more layers underneath, specifically a down vest from Cabela’s (polar fleece also works fairly well) and I can handle down to about 45. When the mercury really starts dipping, my next line of defense is auxiliary heat in the form of an electric vest and gloves from Widder. Any system which adds heat back to your biological system is a deposit in the bank! This supplemental heat will get me well down into the 20s.

The Cliche of Layering Really Works - Electricity, Insulation and Weatherproofing

Maintaining dexterity in your hands is a major safety concern as “feel for the controls” plays a huge part in the smooth throttle, clutch and especially braking finesse needed in the lower traction situations that are more likely in winter. After experiencing the wonders of heated grips for the first time, thanks to AngryBob’s trusty ole Cup o’ Nards, I installed them on every bike I’m likely to ride this time of year (I highly recommend the brand Dual Star). From actual experience, I’m know this will get me all the way down into the teens in relative comfort. Heated grips are also a great addition for day to day riding year-round, especially when you get caught out after the sun goes down with only some light fair weather gear. Since there’s nothing to remember to take with you, these can turn a bone chilling ride after dark into a survivable experience.

My feet are usually the final victim in the comfort war, but I haven’t found a great solution for that extremity just yet. Most of the heated stuff, like socks are too bulky or require too much effort to operate. So I mainly concentrate on keeping out wind and moisture with good waterproof riding boots and add a thick pair of motocross socks to minimize heat loss. The fact that these socks are usually tall enough to reach up to your knee makes a noticable difference. I’ve also had success with thin polypropelene undersocks as they are good at wicking heat-robbing moisture away from your skin. You have to be careful with bulky items as they have a ability to actually make things feel colder by reducing circulation. Always make sure your top layer has enough room for any layers you’ll be adding underneath. It doesn’t do any good to be well insulatated if you can’t move (anybody remember Randy in A Christmas Story? …. “I can’t put my arms down”). Your range of motion will be reduced a bit as you add layers, but make sure you can still control your bike.

If you are riding all the way into the single digits, well, you get what you deserve.

Keep in mind, I’m a pretty hearty fellow, so if you are particularly susceptible to cold temperatures ,because you live somewhere like Phoenix OR you have circulation problems OR you have low body fat; add 10 or 20 degrees to my numbers.

Also know that as you age (you know who you are), your body isn’t as good at producing, distributing or retaining heat, so you will need to be more mindful even in what seems like reasonable temperatures. Just because it feels comfortable in a T-shirt standing in the midday sun on your deck doesn’t mean it will be comfortable on a bike at sunset with your self-created 60 MPH breeze.

I find black is my preferred color for winter gear. While it might be harder for drivers to see, especially after dark, when the sun is shinning, it acts a bit like a solar panel, sucking up just a bit of extra thermal energy over other colors. Besides, you should be using gear with retro-reflective highlights anyway.

Some additional advice on using heated items: because most if not all of these items run directly off the bikes battery, so I like to turn things off or down if I know I’m going to be stopped for more than a minute or so. Even though these items don’t put a heavy drain on the charging system, when the bike is idling you’re losing the charging war (many bikes can’t actually re-charge the battery until they are turning several thousand RPMs). It’s my little way to insure I have enough juice, not only to get home but be able to start the bike the next morning. Besides, when you’re not moving, windchill tends to be a non-issue. If possible your heated clothing should have some type of variable heat adjustability. You’ll want that adjustibility, especially if you are changing speeds frequently. Also, be careful about turning up the heat too high, you want just enough to take the chill off. If you start sweating, you body will quickly turn into an evaporative cooler and you’ll feel even colder.

Rhino