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While the race track is like no other I also enjoy long hours in the saddle. Doing 500-700 plus miles a day, you quickly learn what works and what doesn’t. Over the years I’ve narrowed my gear choices down and occasionally will try different things but as far as helmets go I’ve never found one that was what I’d call nearly perfect for long days in the saddle.

The first time I used a flip style helmet (about 7yrs ago) I immediately fell in love with the advantages of the flip helmet. Spending hours in the saddle you need to eat, drink and just get some fresh air….without stopping! The flip helmet design does this. Problem was every flip helmet

After several years of doing my own tires here is what I use. This setup is designed to be mobile as half my tire changes occur away from home (track side) and will cost about $250 for the whole set up. From the time I roll my Mille up to riding away I can do both tire changes in under 45min.

From the above pic left to right, then back to front…

1. Green canvas tool bag $5 Army/Navy surplus store
2. Metzler Tire Balancer #119: $150 I purchased from hondadirectlineusa.com. Terrible phone help, but the best price at the time. Handy Industries has a good balancer too but Metz is smaller and the included tire rod adaptors work with single side setups
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Had to run down to Phoenix airport today to make the last FedEx drop off. I took the BMW K12LT as I had barely enough time and didn’t want to deal with traffic. Made it just in time and was headed back home. On the north bound hwy 51/101 exchange, traffic comes to a near stand still as the two lane overpass merges to one lane before dropping down and merging with the connecting freeway. We were all moving at about 4 mph and everyone was moving into position for the one lane merge. I placed myself in line just like everyone else so that every other car merged together. However, seems the 30 something lady next to me decided

If you talk to people about suspension and what they want out of it and you’ll get a multitude of answers. Most will be happy simply to make their bikes comfortable and predictable. Modern suspensions with adjustable preload and damping will provide this. As a rider’s skill improves, and he pushes his bike and tires harder, all suspension variables become more sensitive and crucial to get right. At this point the rider is beyond ride quality. What’s needed is balanced grip in the front and rear. At this level of riding questions of bike attitude and damping come to the forefront where as previously (quality first) they had very little influence to the rider. If there is one thing I’ve

Springs are another topic of long debate among riders. With few exceptions springs are helical wound, round wire metal with the front springs composed of two relatively long flimsy springs and the rear made short and stiff. Front springs must be able to support not only the weight of the rider and bike but also resist bottoming during hard braking. At the same time they must be soft enough to give good compliance during acceleration, when the weight transfers to the rear and the front is left skimming the road surface all the while fitting inside the fork tube. To meet these goals the springs must be long with abundant coils. Usually front springs are progressively wound. A simple progressive

Modern suspensions comprise of a spring, oil and a cartridge system to control damping. They offer a host of adjustments such as spring preload which can be accomplished both manually by turning an adjuster ring directly on the spring or hydraulically controlled. They can have compression and rebound damping adjustments and adjustments to the length of a rear shock and let’s not forget that more and more shocks are now offering both a high speed and low speed damping adjustment. Add in different spring rates, oil heights and oil viscosity (weight) along with riders of different sizes and abilities and you have a receipt for potential disaster in the hands of the unknowledgeable. This will be a multi part article